Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.
“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.
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